Fog covers the wide, flat landscape that stretches eastward from Lake Neusiedl, Austria’s largest water body, extending all the way to Hungary. The region is called Seewinkel, which translates as “the angle of the lake.” Lake Neusiedl was once much larger and stretched in an L-shape on the Austrian and Hungarian sides. Where the angle of the L used to be, there is now the Austrian steppe—the Seewinkel with a special national park: the National Park Neusiedlersee-Seewinkel.

It is already 4 p.m. and it looks quite dark due to the thick fog. I am standing on a viewing tower and looking into the grey soup. My binoculars are of little help. Instead, my ears are pricked up, waiting for a very special sound that reliably gives me goosebumps every year: the trumpeting of Common Crane (Grus grus).  

Common Crane (Grus grus). Older, experienced animals usually lead the group. The position is rotated regularly.

Once an important breeding bird in the region, it has abandoned this breeding ground due to major changes, urbanization, the intensification of agriculture, and the draining of wetlands. Sightings of it in Austria have become a rarity. However, this has changed dramatically in recent years. For reasons that are still scientifically unexplained, the crane has changed its flight route and now branches off in Hungary, coming from the Baltic States, to fly over Austria to France and Spain. Austria seems to have become a new, popular resting place, and a few pairs even stay here or across the border to Hungary, when the winters are not too harsh.  

In the afternoon, these special birds of happiness, as they are also called, return to their traditional roots, and I want to experience this spectacle despite the limited visibility. And there: The first calls pierce the white wall. Cranes have distinctive social interactions and a wide range of calls. Thanks to their double-looped windpipe, these can be heard from far away. A silhouette emerges, then another and many more. Threaded in rows, these special animals with their wingspan of up to 2.20 meters sail over me. This is the moment I have been so eagerly waiting for.

Bird watching all year round.  

Cranes characterize the period from late October to early December in the Neusiedlersee-Seewinkel National Park. But as a hotspot of biodiversity and an important bird conservation reserve, this area fascinates bird lovers, from beginners to professionals, all year round.

Winter is heralded by the cranes, mainly followed by geese from the far north. In addition to the local Greylag Geese (Anser anser), which now stay in Austria and, due to climate change, no longer migrate to southern Europe and North Africa, White-fronted Geese (Anser albifrons) from the northern Russian tundra and Siberia also join in. Adult birds have a white patch around their beaks, which makes them easy to distinguish from the Greylag Geese. They are also slightly smaller and have distinctive black stripes on their bellies.  

But here, too, it is particularly important to know how to distinguish between these two species acoustically, as the visible characteristics are often not clearly recognizable in flight. If you perceive a hysterical squeaking sound, it is a White-fronted Goose. A loud bleating sound, on the other hand, indicates a Greylag Goose.  

A flock of Greylag Geese lands on the frozen Lake Neusiedl. If it gets too cold for them, they will migrate to the nearest warmer region.  

A quick overview of the course of the year.

In spring, you can observe the mating behavior of the colorful European Bee-eaters (Merops apiaster). Only after a wedding gift in the form of an insect has been presented can the mating begin.  

One thing that is particularly wonderful about ornithological and bird migration studies is that spring begins very early in the year. The first Northern Lapwings (Vanellus Vanellus) arrive or pass through as early as February. With their punk hairstyles, black and white plumage, and washcloth-like flight, they sign to me that spring is approaching and that soon all the other species will be populating the area. Black-winged Stilts (Himantopus himantopus), Pied Avocets (Recurviostra avosetta), and many other waders come to stop by or stay and prepare for the breeding season. The reeds are gradually becoming louder: The reed birds are returning from their journey, some from as far as South Africa, the White Storks (Ciconia ciconia) are settling on the roofs and renovating their old nests. Everything is coming to life, growing, moving, renovating, singing, rustling. Many species can be observed particularly well at the end of April and in May, as this is the middle of the mating and breeding season, when birds show off or defend their nests.

Being seasonally monogamous birds, Black-winged Stilts often stay together during the breeding season.

At some point, the sounds quiet down again, as many are busy with their broods. But if you look closely, you will soon see little feathered balls wandering through the landscape—the baby birds.  

Why are so many species concentrated in this area?

Up to 371 bird species have been recorded in the Neusiedlersee-Seewinkel National Park region in a single year. These include breeding birds, wintering birds, but also migratory species and rare visitors. Approximately 460 bird species occur throughout Austria per year. The area of the Neusiedlersee-Seewinkel National Park therefore covers an important, large part of Austria’s bird life.  

But how is it that so many species occur in such a small patch?

Let me explain but two of the most important reasons:

1. Habitat diversity

In addition to the steppe landscape, the extensive grasslands and meadows, the area east of Lake Neusiedl, is covered by many small and larger soda ponds. Scientists still disagree about the origin of this salt, but the fact is that a landlocked country like Austria has saline waters inhabited by numerous small crustaceans, which in turn are an excellent food source for waders. Species such as the above-mentioned stilt and avocet once only bred on coasts, but here they can be observed as breeding birds even landlocked. Seabirds inland – what a special feature.  

A Northern Lapwing, easily recognizable by its feathered crest, strolls along the edge of a soda pond in search of food.

In addition, the reed belt surrounding Lake Neusiedl covers an area of around 180 km2, making it one of the largest reed belts in Europe. Even though it is a natural monoculture, the reeds are structured and provide space and hiding places for reed-loving species.

And then there is the sand. Yes, sand. This habitat, which is declining worldwide, is important for many insects, which in turn provide food for some bird species.  

The seeds of the reeds provide food for birds in winter. The natural monoculture is an important habitat for many species. Can you find the bird? Well camouflaged and perfectly adapted: a Little Bittern (Ixobrychus minutus).

2. An important resting place for migratory birds

Some bird species use predefined routes. These are known as flyways. Two of these intersect in the Neusiedler See region, namely the East Atlantic Flyway (from Western Europe to West Africa) and the Black Sea-Mediterranean Flyway (connecting Eastern Europe and Western Asia with the Mediterranean region and Africa).  

Thus, species from two different migration routes meet here, which naturally has an impact on the species count.  

The region serves as an important stopover on the birds’ journey. Only a few species travel the entire distance without a break. The preferred strategy is to hop along the route and stop in certain areas to restock their energy reserves. An excellent example for the importance of cross-border bird protection! If the stepping stones disappear, this can cause serious problems for migratory birds.  

A flock of dunlins (Calidris alpina) resting on their journey south and landing in a soda pond.

Summer and early fall.  

The smell of herbs. A sea of purple flowers, Pannonian salt asters (Tripolium pannonicum), adorning the edges of the soda ponds. Some waders are already on their southward journey. Often it is the males that do not participate in breeding who start their journey south quite early.  

In recent years, cattle egrets (Bubulcus ibis) have been appearing more frequently in the Nationalpark region. As a species found in southern regions, climate change may also be creating optimal conditions for it here.

A look at the feathered diversity tells us what time of year we are in. The sad thing about ornithology is that it signals very early that the summer is drawing to a close. But the fascination with this hustle and bustle, this coming and going, these incredible achievements and impressive behaviours, cannot be clouded.

Autumn.

The end of October. Here I am again, standing on the watch tower. Yet, this time there is no fog, this time it is cloudless, and a glowing fireball is setting in the African-like steppe. They are flocking in from all directions, their calls can be heard from afar. The trumpeting. The cranes are on their way south again and are stopping off in Austria. I am gazing in awe at the spectacle and, even though I have witnessed it so many times before, I find myself shedding a tear.  

An Article and Photographs by Elena Ourania Turac